REPORT
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The Gangotri glacier is located in Uttarkashi district of Garhwal Himalaya. The Gangotri glacier is one of the biggest glacier in Himalaya. It is 30.20 km long (Naithani et al. 2000) and width varies between 0.5 to 2.5 km. Numerous small sized glaciers join the main Gangotri glacier from all sides and from the Gangotri group of glaciers. The total ice covers approximated 200 km2 with 20 km3 of ice volume (Vohra, 1981), and it is the valley total glacerized area is about 258.56 km2 long (Naithani et al. 2000). The Bhagirathi river originates at the snout of glacier located at Gaumukh, from which the melt water-giving rise to Bhagirathi gushes out.
The Expedition
Glaciology expedition snout to source from Gangotri glacier to Badrinath
via Kalindi Pass was organised from August, 27 to September 6, 2000 under
Glaciology projected of GBPIHED Kosi, Almora. The area covered during the
expedition is situated in Garhwal Himalaya of Uttaranchal. The expedition
was initially planed in 1999 but due to some reason it could not happen.
Ultimately the dream became true in the end of August 2000 with the support
of four high altitude porters who faced this challenge with me, the utmost
bravery and courage. Preparations were going on for the attempt which proved
to be satisfactory.
The route for this expedition
was Gangotri-Gaumukh-Basukital-Suralaya-Seweta and then through Kalindi
pass (19510feet) (Plates on cover page). The objective of this research
expedition was to explore about the Gangotri glacier catchment with regards
to source of sediment, ablation zone, line of equilibrium, accumulation
zone, tributary glaciers, and geo-morphological landforms, etc. In addition,
of soil (debris), water, and ice sample were also collected from the different
parts of glacier catchment for scientific investigation. After completing
all necessary, logistic and administrative formalities, the team started
for the expedition from 25 August 2000 from Uttarkashi. On 26 August, 2000
the team started from Gangotri and reached for Bhojbasa, where the base
camp was situated (for six month glacier discharge and suspended sediment
monitoring-April-Oct) Gangotri to Bhojbasa, a 14 Km trek was well known
to me, as plenty of times during the last two years I have crossed this
way. We reached Bhojbasa at 1 p.m. and there after made necessary preparations
and technical gear, ready for the next day. It was a plus point with me,
that I did not need acclimatization around upto 4000 m. On August 27, 2000
journey was started early morning at 6.15, towards Nandanvan via Gaumukh
"the lateral ice cave and the snout of Gangotri glacier, from where holy
Ganges gushes out. After an hour’s tiring glacial zigzag trekking form
snout we reached the confluence of Raktavarana glacier. During this course
we passed an outlet of a stream flowing down cascades through the wall
blocking the entrance to the valley. After another two hours of laborious
march we arrived at the outlet of Chaturangini valley. We turned left from
this point as an exposed traverse over an ice wall where huge boulders
and ice slabs made climbing very difficult. We reached the Chaturangini
glacier the surface of which was completely covered by stones. We crossed
it on its side by passing over a very steep and stone covered slope of
the moraine. On reaching its edge, we had an unexpectedly beautiful view
of green meadows and crystal streams. This was Nandanvan, a pleasant grassy
pasture (4335 m) in the fork of Gangotri and Chaturangini glaciers. From
Nandanvan the peaks Kharchkund, Kedardome, Kedar peak, Kirti Stambh, Shivling,
Thalisagar, Bhirgu Pant and Meru were clearly visible.
From Nandanvan we proceeded
to Chaturangini valley. On our way we came across a pleasant meadow along
side a stream, then a crust of the moraine. Behind this one could see peaks
Meru massif and the east face of Bhirgupant. An Unnamed peak rises far
ahead of us. After a march of 8-9 Kms., we reached the confluence of Chaturangi
and Basuki glacier, a rope was fixed to climb 60o-65o
slope, a mixture of mud and scree. And then we descended diagonally right
towards the snout of lateral glacier from the bed of gully, diagonally
left upon a very steep unstable slope (danger of stone and avalanche).
From its edge we have the view of the shallow moraine lake Basukital (4900m).
a little stream coming out from their black ridge of Basuki peak that feeds
the Basuki lake. We pitched our tent on the NW ridge of Basuki Parvat.
On 28th August
2000 we left for Basukital through the depression between true left lateral
of Chaturangini glacier and north face of Bhagirathi II peak and rhyme
rock walked on the ridge with gentle gradient.
The next day the team descended
towards Suralaya Sweta junction point and followed cairn marked route.
The previous day we followed through middle where few glacier tables were
observed. The route leads to a precipitated crest of the moraine and traversing
the avalanches ridden slopes of Basukiparvat which reach the outlet of
the Sunder valley. We camped at near Suralaya, in a small grassy pocket.
Next day we started to Sweta glacier and Satopant peak appears all of sudden
from behind a bend with the mighty rock wall surmounted by seracs rising
in the back gravel. We crossed the glacier and climbed upon the crest of
the moraine then diagonally left across a steep rocky slope, we came to
the edge of fields covered with the boulders at the foot of the rock water.
This pinnacle ends the ridge dividing the Sudar and Suralaya valley. Then
we headed towards a huge block behind which we camped (5200m). From the
bivouac near the boulder we went slightly uphill reaching the outlet of
Suralaya valley which is surmounted by an unnamed peak and Mana Parvat.
Further, we have a steep and tough trek across the Suralaya glacier and
along the northern slopes of Chandra Parvat we camped at the left moraine
of the Seta glaciers near its junction with the Chaturangini glacier. Here
we found the accumulation zone of the Gangotri glacier the way was very
tough and adventurous. On both sides of the glacier, scenes are amazing.
We also heard the roaring sound of avalanches falling in this area. It
was dreadful event of my life. Next day we moved early at 6 a.m. Our team
should have reached Kalindi Pass early, but we could reach only at 8.30
a.m. at Kalindi pass base camp after a long trek on accumulation zone in
chilling cold. We could clearly see from Kalindi Pass base camp. Due to
malting of ice and snow the crevasses were opening. It might be dangerous
for us to ascend the pass summit as we all are tired and facing headache
and our porter Kedar was unfit. We took rest at this point, and pitched
tent at Kalindi base camp.
The next day trek was for
Kalindi Pass. Hence the team marched towards east, through medial moraine
of Sweta Kalindi glacier and then to north-east, since the route through
the moraine turned towards east and negotiating a crevasses started descending
on an ice field and reached a boulder ridges from where turned towards
north through the left lateral moraine of Kalindi glacier and reached the
Kalindi Pass. Kalindi Pass separates the boundary of Gangotri glacier catchment
from Badrinath valley. We reached here at 8 a.m. (Plate 4 ) many peaks
and glacier are visible from this height. After an half hour rest as per
my suggestion two porters were cutting curve steps in an ice wall which
were approximately 130 feet. They have done just half of work suddenly
porter Bardev Singh skid from this wall and reached down with rolling and
bouncing. We were shocked to see him fall but he said I am okay. After
an hour of efforts we rescued him. The pass was completely filled with
ice and snow and chilled cold storm was blowing. Ice and snow was malting
in the pass at 11 a.m. So for the safety point of view I canceled descending
and decided to stay at pass. We pitched tent at a safer side. In the night
we were hearing the roaring sounds of frequent avalanche breaking, and
the speedy blinchirds was over the pass and cruelly shaking our tent, and
we all were facing acute headache, we could not sleep properly.
Next day at 5.30 a.m. we
trek to another route with the help of map and struggled against two broad
crevasses with the help of rope and technical gear. Ultimately we succeeded
to ascend the pass and reached the snow field, and searched our ice axes
which were fallen the previous day, and started to ascend from the snow
field which was slightly dangerous as it is filled with loose boulders
and snow and ice with 55o-60o gradient slope. Within
one and half hour we successfully ascended, and reached another glacier
catchment and after one hour we reached near Arwa tal (lake). And we pitched
our tent by this pleasant place. Now Arwa tal lake has filled with sediments
only a rivulet flow over the lake, which comes from Arwa glacier. Next
day we departed to Ghastoli, which was 16 km. from Arwatal, during the
trek, many streams which feeds to Sarswati river were crossed. Next day
we trekked 12 km from Ghastoli and reached Mana village and then Badrinath.
The observation
From the snout of Gangotri glacier to Kalindi base camp we observed
nine tributary glaciers of Chaturangini glacier. Chaturangini glacier is
the longest glacier of Gangotri glacier system. The numerous enchanting
glacier lakes spread over the glacial system (Plate 2), generally is responsible
for glacial outburst events. Observation were also made regarding active
landslide, rock fall avalanche prone zone and different debris fans. Debris
fans along the lateral moraine of the glacier system can be responsible
for extra sediment supply or sporadic events to the sub glacial channel
in normal discharge cycle in monsoonal period (Kumar et al. 2001). This
can be proved from oblique lateral moraine eroded landforms in the glacial
valley (Plate 3). The ablation zone of the Gangotri glacier is covered
by a thick pile of supraglacial moraines and is characterized by several
serrac ice sections, melting into pool of supraglacial lakes. Because of
subsidence and fast degenerating nature of the glacier and the supraglacial
lakes scattered in the entire glacier system (Naithani et al. 2000). A
clear line was also visible between ablation and accumulation zone. One
could observe that this line is thinning as well as tributary glacier’s
snout, the ablation zone was also covered with debris and boulders with
giant longitudinal and traverse crevasses. And in the accumulation zone
some stagnant ice pillars were found near Kalindi glacier (Plate 1). Some
observations were also made through ground trotting through geocoded data
(IRS-1D 1998 and IRS-1C 1998) and toposheet (53 0/1) survey of India of
this area. Change detection work is still in progress.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
The author is grateful to Er. Kireet Kumar, PI of this project for
encouraging this expedition and valuable suggestions. I sincerely gratitude
the support of Dr. Varun Joshi and Mr. Y.S. Panda of GBPIHED and porters
in the expedition team. Thanks also due to Department of Science and Technology
for funding the programme under glaciology project.
Plates (as displayed in the cover page):
1. Stagnant ice pillars in accumulation zone of Gangotri glacier
2. Supra glacial lake in ablation zone of Gangotri glacier
3. Oblique view of eroded lateral moraine of Gangotri glacier
4. Glacial expedition team reached on summit of Kalindi Pass
REFERENCES
Vohra, C.P. 1981. Himalayan glaciers-In the Himalaya: aspect of change
(eds. J.S. Lal and A.D. Moddie), Oxford University Press, Delhi: 138-151.
Naithani, A.K., Nainwal, H.C., Sati, K.K., and Prasad, C. 2001. Geomorphological evidences of retreat of the Gangotri glacier and its characteristics. Current Science: 80(1).
Kumar, K., Joshi, V., Miral, M.S. and Panda, Y.S. 2001. Technical report submitted to Department of Science and Technology, New Delhi.
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